How to Crochet a Classic Granny Square (Beginner Pattern)
A clear, tested granny square pattern for beginners - the exact rounds, stitch counts, and corner spacing, so your square lies flat instead of ruffling or curling.
The granny square is the friendliest “real project” in crochet. It’s worked in the round, it grows fast, it uses up odd bits of yarn, and once you can make one, you can join dozens into blankets, bags, and cushions. This is the classic version, written out plainly with stitch counts so you always know where you are.
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What you’ll need
- Worsted-weight (medium, #4) yarn in one or more colors
- A 5.0 mm (US H/8) or 5.5 mm (US I/9) hook
- Scissors and a yarn needle for weaving in ends
This pattern uses US terms. The only stitches are the chain (ch), slip stitch (sl st), and double crochet (dc). A double crochet is: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2, yarn over and pull through the last 2.
Start: the center ring
Chain 4 and join with a slip stitch into the first chain to form a ring.
Round 1
Ch 3 (this counts as your first dc). Work 2 dc into the ring, then ch 2 to make the first corner. Work 3 dc into the ring, ch 2 – repeat that three more times. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3.
You should have four groups of 3 dc separated by four ch-2 corner spaces. That’s the little square you’ll build on.
Round 2
Slip stitch across to the nearest ch-2 corner space. In that space work: ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc (that’s your first corner made of two dc-groups with a ch-2 between them). Then ch 1 to cross the side. In the next corner space work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), then ch 1 – repeat around. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3.
Now each corner has two 3-dc groups with a ch-2 between them, and each side has a single ch-1 gap.
Round 3 (and every round after)
Slip stitch to the first corner space. In each corner space work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc). Along each side, work 3 dc into the ch-1 space, with ch 1 between every group. Join with a sl st at the end of the round.
In plain terms, the rule from Round 3 onward is simple: corners get (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc); every side gap gets 3 dc; put ch 1 between groups. Repeat this round until your square is the size you want.
Finishing
Cut the yarn leaving a 6-inch tail, pull it through the last loop to fasten off, and use a yarn needle to weave the tail into the back of the stitches. Do the same with your starting tail.
Why your square might ruffle or curl
If the edges wave or ruffle, you’re adding stitches – usually too many dc in the side spaces, or an extra group sneaking in at the corners. If the square cups or curls, you’re short a group somewhere. Blocking (gently wetting and pinning the finished square flat to dry) also relaxes minor unevenness.
Frequently asked questions
Can I change colors each round? Yes – that’s the classic granny look. Fasten off at the end of a round, then join the new color in any corner space with a slip stitch and begin the round there.
How many rounds make a standard square? Six to eight rounds makes a versatile square for blankets. Make them all the same number of rounds so they join evenly.
My center hole is big. Is that normal? A chain-ring leaves a small hole, which is traditional. If you want it closed, start with a magic ring instead and pull it tight before Round 2.
